P.S.
- Mother, I forgot to say that I heard Dr. Beecher in C., when
I was there. Was introduced to Rev. Mr. Galliger, but did not hear
him. My husband heard him in Pittsburgh - I was not able to go to
church that day, because of a severe headache. Dr. B. appears the
same in the pulpit that he does at a distance - I mean his
preaching. He is a small man, quite indifferent in his appearance.
I could hardly believe it was he when I saw him come.
N.W.
Mr.
Stephen Prentice
Angelica, Allegheny Co.
New York.
ON BOARD STEAMBOAT CHARITON
Thursday, March 31, 1836.
Dear
Sister Jane:
We
did not leave last night as expected, and the day being very
pleasant, gave me an opportunity of visiting the city. Received a
call from our old acquaintance, Rev. Milton Kimball, and with him
visited the cathedral. It was high-mass day.
We
left the cathedral, after staying about an hour; called and made
some purchases, then returned to the boat, and found that Mr.
Lovejoy had called, to give us an invitation to dinner with him.
Felt regret very much that I did not see him. My husband saw him.
he wished to know when we were married, because he designed to
publish it in the Observer. He still continues to edit his paper
in St. Louis.
We
left St. Louis immediately after dinner. Passed many delightful
residences in Missouri, on the banks of the Mississippi, just as
we leave the city. Dwellings situated upon mounds, and many
remaining ones yet to be occupied - natural mounds, in appearance
like that at Amity, only much larger. One of them is the situation
of a female academy, now building. My curiosity was Uncle Sam's
toothpullers - two huge-looking boats lying to. They fearlessly
run into danger, search out difficulties, and remove them. I
should like to see them in operation, but shall not expect to now.
Twilight had nearly gone when we entered the waters of the great
Missouri, but the moon shone in her brightness. It was a beautiful
evening. My husband and myself went upon the top of the boat, to
take a more commanding view of the scenery. How majestic, how
grand, was the scene! the meeting of two such great waters.
"Surely, how admirable are thy works, O Lord of Hosts."
I could have dwelt upon the scene still longer with pleasure, but
Brother Spalding called us to prayers, and we left beholding the
works of God for his immediate worship.
April
1st. - Nothing of much importance occurred to-day. My
eyes are satiated with the same beautiful scenery all along the
coasts of this mighty river, so peculiar to this western country.
One year ago to-day since my husband first arrived in St. Louis on
his exploring route to the mountains. We are one week earlier
passing up the river this spring than he was last year. While the
boat stopped to take in wood we went on shore, found some rushes,
picked a branch of cedar, went to a spring for clear water (the
river water is very rily at all times), and rambled considerably
in pursuit of new objects. One of these circumstances I must
mention, which was quite diverting to us. On the rocks near the
river we found a great quantity of the prickly pear. Husband knew
from experience the effects of handling them, and cautioned me
against them, but I thought I could just take one and put it in my
india-rubber apron pocket, and carry it to the boat. I did so, but
after rambling a little I thought to take it out, and behold, my
pocket was filled with its needles, just like a caterpillar's
bristles. I became considerably annoyed with them; they covered my
hands, and I have scarcely got rid of them yet. My husband would
have laughed at me a little, were it not for his own misfortune.
He thought to discover what kind of mucilage it was by tasting it
- cut one in two, bit it, and covered his lips completely. We then
had to sympathize with each other, and were glad to render mutual
assistance in a case of extermination.
April
2nd, evening, ten o'clock. - We have come on well
since we left St. Louis. Sailed all night last night, which is a
rare thing on this river, on account of snags and sandbars. We are
now at Jefferson City, about half way to Liberty from St. Louis.
How long we stop here I do not know - perhaps all night.
Monday,
4th. - We passed the wreck of the Steamboat Siam
to-day about noon. It is indeed a melancholy sight. She was not
quite a year old. She ran upon a snag and sank, last winter. No
lives lost. We stopped to-day at Chariton, about an hour. We went
on shore and visited a steam sawmill. It was quite a curiosity, as
well as the great engine that propels the boat upon the mighty
waters.
Thursday,
7th. - Very pleasant, but cold. This morning the
thermometer stood at 24 at nine o-clock. I have not seen any snow
since we left the Allegheny mountains, before the 15th of March. I
should like to know about the snow in New York. Is it all gone?
How did it go, and the consequences? Mary, we have had a sick one
with us all the way since we joined Dr. Satterlee. Mrs. Satterlee
has had a very bad cough and cold, which has kept her feeble. She
is now recovering, and is as well as can be expected. The rest of
us have been very well, except feeling the effects of drinking the
river water. I am in exception, however. My health was never
better than since I have been on the river. I was weighed last
week, and came up to 136 pounds. I think I shall endure the
journey well - perhaps better than any of the rest of us. Mrs.
Spalding does not look nor feel quite healthy enough for our
enterprise. Riding affects her differently from what it does me.
Everyone who sees me compliments me as being the best able to
endure the journey over the mountains. Sister S. is very resolute
- no shrinking with her. She possesses much fortitude. I like her
very much. She wears well upon acquaintance. She is very suitable
person for Mr. Spalding - has the right temperment to match him. I
think we shall get along very well together; we have so far. I
have such a good place to shelter - under my husband's wings. He
is so excellent. I love to confide in his judgment, and act under
him, for it gives me a chance to improve. Jane, if you want to be
happy get as good a husband as I have got, and be a missionary.
Mary, I wish you were with us. You would be happy, as I am. The
way looks pleasant, notwithstanding we are so near encountering
the difficulties of an unheard-of journey for females. I think it
would do your health good, as well as Lyman and Brother J.G., too.
This
letter is free plunder. Jane, I will write to you again. What I
say to one, I say to all. I should like to write to each of you,
separately, but I wish to write so many ways that my time is so
occupied that I cannot write as much I want to. Since we have been
here we have made our tent. It is made of bedticking, in a conical
form, large enough for us all to sleep under - viz.: Mr. Spalding
and wife, Dr. Whitman and wife, Mr. Gray, Richard
Tak-ah-too-ah-tis, and John Altz; quite a little family - raised
with a centerpole and fastened down with pegs, covering a large
circle. Here we shall live, eat and sleep for the summer to come,
at least - perhaps longer. Mary, you inquired concerning my beds
and bedding. I will tell you. We five spread our India-rubber
cloth on the ground, then our blankets, and encamp for the night.
We take plenty of Mackinaw blankets, which answer for our bed and
bedding, and when we journey place them over our saddles and ride
on them. I wish you could see our outfit.
I
had made for me, in Brother Augustus' shoe store, in Rushville, a
pair of gentlemen's boots, and from him we supplied ourselves with
what shoes we wanted. We have each of us a life-preserver, so that
if we fall into the water we shall not drown. They are made of
India-rubber cloth, air-tight, and when filled with air and placed
under the arm will prevent one from sinking. Each of us take a
plate, knife and fork and a tin cup. Mary, when we are under way I
will describe the whole proceeding to you. When I see it before my
eyes I can give a better description, for I shall have a better
understanding of it. Husband has got me an excellent sidesaddle,
and a very easy horse. He made me a present of a mule to ride, the
other day, so I do not know which I shall like best - I have not
tried the latter, Richard says "That's very bad mule - can't
catch buffaloes." That is the test with him. An animal's
speed makes him good, in his eye. I shall write you from Council
Bluffs and at every opportunity, especially when Mr. Parker
returns. We have lately received a letter from Mrs. Parker. O,
what a spirit it breathed! When we were there she said if we could
not get a minister to go with us we might keep Mr. Parker until
one came, if we would only go on, and even now she has given
permission for him to stay a year longer, and visit another tribe
to the south. I wish I could show you her letter. You say Brother
J.G. and his wife have been to Ithaca. Why did he not go when I
was there? I had a good visit with Deacon and Mrs. Rolla, and a
piece of a song, too, but not half enough. He sent me the
"Missionary's Farewell," by Dr. Satterlee; music, by
himself. Alas! my husband don't come to-night; the wind has blown
so hard that I expect he has not been able to cross the river.
Brother Gray is with him. I shall not feel so anxious about him on
that account, so adieu for to-night. It is almost ten o'clock, and
the family have all gone to rest.
I
should like to tell you how the western people talk, if I had
room. Their language is so singular that I could scarcely
understand them, yet it was very amusing. In speaking of quantity,
they say "heap of man, heap of water, she is heap sick",
etc. If you ask, "How does your wife today?" "O,
she is smartly better, I reckon, but she is powerful weak; she has
been mighty bad. What's the matter with your eye?"
PLATTE
RIVER, JUST ABOVE THE FORKS, JUNE 3RD, 1836.
Dear
Sister Harriet and Brother Edward:
Friday
eve, six o'clock. We have just encamped for the night
near the bluffs over against the river. The bottoms are a soft,
wet plain, and we were obliged to leave the river yesterday for
the bluffs. The face of the country yesterday afternoon and today
has been rolling sand bluffs, mostly barren, quite unlike what our
eyes have been satiated with for weeks past. No timber nearer than
the Platte, and the water tonight is very bad - got from a small
ravine. We have usually had good water previous to this.
Our
fuel for cooking since we left timber (no timber except on rivers)
has been dried buffalo dung; we now find plenty of it and it
answers a very good purpose, similar to the kind of coal used in
Pennsylvania (I suppose now Harriet will make up a face at this,
but if she was here she would be glad to have her supper cooked at
any rate in this scarce timber country). The present time in our
journey is a very important one. The hunter brought us buffalo
meat yesterday for the first time. Buffalo were seen today but
none have been taken. We have some for supper tonight. Husband is
cooking it - no one of the company professes the art but himself.
I expect it will be very good. Stop - I have so much to say to the
children that I do not know in what part of my story to begin. I
have very little time to write. I will first tell you what our
company consists of. We are ten in number; five missionaries,
three Indian boys and two young men employed to assist in packing
animals.
Saturday,
4th. Good morning, H. and E. I wrote last night till supper; after
that it was dark I could not see. I told you how many bipeds there
was in our company last night; now for the quadrupeds: Fourteen
horses, six mules and fifteen head of cattle. We milk four cows.
We started with seventeen, but we have killed one calf, and the
Fur Company, being out of provision, have taken one of our cows
for beef. It is usually pinching times with the Company before
they reach the buffalo. We have had plenty because we made ample
provision at Liberty. We purchased a barrel of flour and baked
enough to last us, with killing a calf or two, until we reached
the buffalo.
The
Fur Company is large this year; we are really a moving village -
nearly 400 animals, with ours, mostly mules, and 70 men. The Fur
Company have seven wagons drawn by six mules each, heavily loaded,
and one cart drawn by two mules, which carries a lame man, one of
the proprietors of the Company. We have two wagons in our company.
Mr. and Mrs. S., husband and myself ride in one, Mr. Gray and the
baggage in the other. Our Indian boys drive the cows and Dulin the
horses. Young Miles leads our forward horses, four in each team.
Now E., if you want to see the camp in motion, look away ahead and
see first the pilot and the captain, Fitzpatrick, just before him,
next the pack animals, all mules, loaded with great packs; soon
after you will see the wagons, and in the rear, our company. We
all cover quite a space. The pack mules always string one after the
other just like Indians.
There
are several gentlemen in the company who are going over the
mountains for pleasure. Capt. Steward (Mr. Lee speaks of him in
his journal - he went over when he did and returned) he is an
Englishman and Mr. Celam. We had a few of them to tea with us last
Monday evening, Capt. Fitzpatrick, Stewart, Major Harris and Celam.
I
wish I could describe to you how we live so that you can realize
it. Our manner of living is far preferable to any in the States. I
never was so contented and happy before neither have I enjoyed
such health for years. In the morning as soon as the day breaks
the first that we hear is the words, "Arise! Arise!" -
then the mules set up such a noise as you never heard, which puts
the whole camp in motion. We encamp in a large ring, baggage and
men, tents and wagons on the outside, and all the animals except
the cows, which are fastened to pickets, within the circle. This
arrangement is to accommodate the guard, who stand regularly every
night and day, also when we are in motion, to protect our animals
from the approach of Indians, who would steal them. As I said, the
mules' noise brings every man on his feet to loose them and turn
them out to feed.
Now,
H. and E., you must think it very hard to have to get up so early
after sleeping on the soft ground, when you find it hard work to
open your eyes at seven o'clock. Just think of me - every morning
at the word, "Arise!" we all spring. While the horses
are feeding we get breakfast in a hurry and eat it. By this time
the words, "Catch up! Catch up," ring through the camp
for moving. We are ready to start usually at six, travel till
eleven, encamp, rest and feed, and start again about two; travel
until six, or before, if we come to a good tavern, then encamp for
the night.
Since
we have been in the prairie we have done all our cooking. When we
left Liberty we expected to take bread to last us part of the way,
but could not get enough to carry us any distance. We found it
awkward work to bake out of doors at first, but we have become so
accustomed to it now we do it very easily.
Tell
mother I am a very good housekeeper on the prairie. I wish she
could just take a peep at us while we are sitting at our meals.
Our table is the ground, our table-cloth is an India-rubber cloth
used when it rains as a cloak; our dishes are made of tin-basins
for teacups, iron spoons and plates, each of us, and several pans
for milk and to put our meat in when we wish to set it on the
table. Each one carries his own knife in his scabbard, and it is
always ready to use. When the table things are spread, after
making our own forks or sticks and helping ourselves to chairs, we
gather around the table. Husband always provides my seat, and in a
way that you would laugh to see. It is the fashion of all this
country to imitate the Turks. Messrs. Dunbar and Allis have supped
with us, and they do the same. We take a blanket and lay down by
the table, and those whose joints will let them follow the
fashion; others take out some of the baggage (I suppose you know
that there is no stones in this country' not a stone have I seen
of any size on the prairie). For my part I fix myself as
gracefully as I can, sometimes on a blanket, sometimes on a box,
just as it is convenient. Let me assure you of this, we relish our
food none the less for sitting on the ground while eating. We have
tea and a plenty of milk, which is a luxury in this country.
Our
milk has assisted us very much in making our bread since we have
been journeying. While the Fur Company has felt the want of food,
our milk has been of great service to us; but it was considerable
work for us to supply ten persons with bread three times a day. We
are done using it now. What little flour we have left we shall
preserve for thickening our broth, which is excellent. I never saw
any thing like buffalo meat to satisfy hunger. We do not want any
thing else with it. I have eaten three meals of it and it relishes
well. Supper and breakfast we eat in our tent. We do not pitch it
at noon. Have worship immediately after supper and breakfast.
Noon.
- The face of the country today has been like that of yesterday.
We are now about 30 miles above the forks, and leaving the bluffs
for the river. We have seen wonders this forenoon. Herds of
buffalo hove in sight; one, a bull, crossed our trail and ran upon
the bluffs near the rear of the camp. We took the trouble to chase
him so as to have a near view. Sister Spalding and myself got out
of the wagon and ran upon the bluff to see him. This band was
quite willing to gratify our curiosity, seeing it was the first.
Several have been killed this forenoon. The Company keep a man out
all the time to hunt for the camp.
Edward,
if I write much more in this way I do not know as you can read it
without great difficulty. I could tell you much more, but as we
are all ready to move again, so farewell for the present. I wish
you were all here with us going to the dear Indians. I have become
very much attached to Richard Sak-ah-too-ah. 'T is the one you saw
at our wedding; he calls me mother; I love to teach him - to take
care of him, and hear them talk. There are five Nez Perces in the
company, and when they are together they chatter finely. Samuel
Temoni, the oldest one, has just come into the camp with the skin
and some of the meat of a buffalo which he has killed himself. He
started this forenoon of his own accord. It is what they like
dearly, to hunt buffalo. So long as we have him with us we shall
be supplied with meat.
I am
now writing backwards. Monday morning. - I begun to say something
here that I could not finish. Now the man from the mountains has
come who will take this to the office. I have commenced one to
sister Hull which I should like to send this time if I could
finish it. We have just met him and we have stopped our wagons to
write a little. Give my love to all. I have not told you half of
what I want to. We are all in health this morning and making rapid
progress in our journey. By the 4th of July our captain intends to
be at the place where Mrs. Parker and husband parted last fall. We
are a month earlier passing here than they were last spring.
Husband has begun a letter to pa and ma, and since he has cut his
finger so it troubles him to write to the rest. As this is done in
a hurry I don't know if you can read it. Tell mother that if I had
looked the world over I could not have found one more careful and
better qualified to transport a female such a distance. Husband
says, "stop."
Farewell
to all.
NARCISSA
PRENTISS
ON
PLATTE RIVER, 30 MILES ABOVE THE FORKS.
June 4th, 1836.
Dear
Father and Mother Prentiss:
You will be anxious to hear from us at
this distance and learn our situation and progress. We have been
greatly blest thus far on our journey. We have had various trials,
it is true, but they have mostly been overruled for our good. Narcissa's health is much improved from what it was when she left
N.Y. We failed of going from Liberty to Bellevue as was expected
in the Fur Company's steamboat. We were waiting at Liberty for the
boat for some time and though we would go on with our cattle,
horses and wagons, and let Mr. Allis from the Pawnee agency stay
with the ladies and go on the boat. Accordingly Messrs. Spalding
and Gray went on and I was to join them at Cantonment Leavenworth.
In the meantime Mrs. Saterlee died and boat passed but refused to
stop for us. Mr. Spalding wrote me he would wait eight miles the
other side of garrison until I came up, so that when the boat
passed I did not send an express as I otherwise should have done,
but proceeded to hire a team to take us on; but when we arrived at
the garrison he had crossed the river and gone directly on for
Bellevue and had been gone for three days, which caused me to have
to send an express for him, which did not overtake him until they
were within forty miles of the Platte. I followed with the women
and baggage, with a hired team. We met out teams the fourth day on
their return. From that on we were greatly favored with fair
weather, never having to encounter any rainstorm or serious
shower. We have not been once wet even to this time, and we are
now beyond where the rains fall much in summer.
We
had several days delay from my going ahead to see Maj. Dougherty's
brother, who was very sick and sent for me when he learned I was
coming. It was Sabbath and we were within 18 miles of the Otto
Agency, which is on the Platte, where Mr. Dougherty lives. On
Monday I sent the man, who came for me, after the party, and I
went to see Fitzpatrick, the leader of the Fur caravan, with whom
we were to travel. I found him encamped ready for a start on
Thursday morning, about twenty-five miles from the Otto Agency.
When I returned our party had not arrived and did not come until
Wednesday, the man who was to pilot them having lost his way.
We
had great difficulty in crossing the Platte which, together with
repairs to our wagons, detained us until Saturday noon, May 21st,
and he (Fitzpatrick) had been gone from Sunday. We felt much doubt
about overtaking them, but we pushed on, and after ferrying the
Horn in a skin boat and making a very difficult ford of the Loup,
we overtook the Company at a few miles below the Pawnee villages
on Wednesday evening. We then felt that we had been signally
blessed, thanked God and took courage. We felt it had been of
great service to us that we had been disappointed in these several
particulars, particularly as it tested the ability of our ladies
to journey in this way. We have since made good progress every
day, and are now every way well situated, having plenty of good
buffalo meat and the cordial co-operation of the company with whom
we are journeying.
June
6th. - We have just met the men by whom we can send letters and
have to close without farther particulars or ceremony.
With
Christian regards to your family, farewell.
Yours
affectionately,
MARCUS
WHITMAN
PLATTE
RIVER, SOUTH SIDE, SIX DAYS ABOVE THE FORT LARAMIE FORK, NEAR THE
FOOT OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS,
June 27, 1836.
Dear Brother and
Sister Whitman:
We were in perplexity when we left Liberty, but it
has been overruled for good. I wrote Mother Loomis from the Otoe
Agency. We were in still greater perplexity there, while crossing
our baggage. Husband became so completely exhausted with swimming
the river on Thursday, May 9th, that it was with difficulty he
made the shore the last time. Mr. Spalding was sick, our two hired
men were good for nothing; we could not obtain much assistance
from the Otoes, for they were away from the village; we had but
one canoe, made of skins, and that partly eaten by the dogs the
night before. We got everything over by Friday night. We did not
get ready to start until Saturday afternoon. By this time the
[American Fur] company had four and a half days the advance of us.
It seemed scarcely possible for us to overtake them, we having two
more difficult streams to pass, before they would pass the Pawnee
villages. Behind there we dare not venture more than one day. We
were at a stand; but with the advice of brethren Merrill and
Dunbar-missionaries among the Pawnees-after a concert of prayer on
the subject, we decided to start and go as far as it would be
prudent for us. Brother Dunbar kindly consented to become our
pilot, until we could get another. He started with us and came as
far as the Elkhorn river, then the man Major Dougherty sent for,
for us, came up, and Mr. Dunbar returned. We had passed the river
on Monday morning and taken down the rope, when our pilot and his
Indian came up. It was with difficulty we crossed him and returned
Mr. Dunbar. While on the opposite shore, just ready to leave us,
he called to us to receive his parting advice, with a word of
caution which will never be forgotten. Our visit with him and
Brother Merrill's family was indeed refreshing to our thirsty
spirits-kindred spirits rejoicing in the self denials and labors
of missionary life.
The
next day, in the morning, we met a large party of Pawnees going to
the fort to receive their annuities. They seemed to be very much
surprised and pleased to see white females; many of them had never
seen any before. They are a noble Indian - large, athletic forms,
dignified countenances, bespeaking an immortal existence within.
When we had said what we wished to them, we hurried on, and
arrived at the Elkhorn in time to cross all our effects.
Here
I must tell you how much good Richard, John and Samuel - Pacific
coast Indian boys whom Dr. Whitman had taken to New York with him
the year before - did us. They do the most of driving the cattle
and loose horses. Occasionally husband and myself would ride with
them as company and encouragement. They came up to the river
before us, and seeing a skin canoe on the opposite side, they
stripped themselves, wound their shirts around their heads, and
swam over and back again with the canoe by the time we came up. We
stretched a rope across the river and pulled the goods over in the
canoe without much difficulty.
Monday
and Tuesday we made hard drives - Tuesday especially. We attempted
to reach the Loup Fork that night, and a part of us succeeded.
Those in the wagons drove there by 11 o'clock, but it was too much
for the cattle. There was not water or feed short of this. We rode
with Richard and John until 9 o'clock, and were all very much
fatigued. Richard proposed to us to go on and he and John would
stay on the prairie with the cattle, and drive them in in the
morning. We did not like to leave them, and so we concluded to
stay. Husband had a cup tied to his saddle, in which he milked
what we wanted to drink; this was our supper. Our saddle blankets,
with our India rubber cloaks, were our beds. Having offered up our
thanksgiving for the blessings of the day and seeking protection
for the night, we committed ourselves to rest. We awoke in the
morning much refreshed and rode into camp before breakfast - five
miles. The Fur Company was on the opposite side of the river,
which we forded, and, without unloading our wagon much, were ready
to move again about noon. We wished to be with the company when
they passed the Pawnee village. This obliged us to make a day's
drive to the camp in half a day, which was too bad for our horses.
We did not reach them until 1 o'clock at night.
The
next day we passed all their villages. We, especially, were
visited by them both at noon and at night; we ladies were such a
curiosity to them. They would come and stand around our tent, peep
in, and grin in their astonishment to see such looking objects.
Since
we came up with the camp, I rode in the wagons most of the way to
the Black Hills. It is astonishing how well we get along with our
wagons where there are no roads. I think I may say it is easier
traveling here than on any turnpike in the States.
On
the way to the buffalo country we had to bake bread for ten
persons. It was difficult at first, as we did not understand
working out-doors; but we became accustomed to it, so that it
became quite easy. June found us ready to receive our first taste
of buffalo. Since that time I have had but little to do with
cooking. Not one in our number relishes buffalo meat as well as my
husband and I. He has a different way for cooking every piece of
meat. I believe Mother Loomis would give up to him if she were
here. We have had no bread since. We have meat and tea in the
morn, and tea and meat at noon. All our variety consists of the
different ways of cooking. I relish it well and it agrees with me.
My health is excellent. So long as I have buffalo meat I do not
wish anything else. Sister Spaulding is affected by it
considerably - has been quite sick.
We
feel that the Lord has blessed us beyond our most sanguine
expectations. We wish our friends at home to unite with us in
thanksgiving and praise for His great mercies to us. We are a
month earlier this year than husband was last, and the company
wish to be at Rendezvous by the 4th of July. We have just crossed
the river and shall leave here tomorrow morning.
Now,
Sister Julia, between you and me, I just want to tell you how much
trouble I have had with Marcus, two or three weeks past. He was
under the impression that we had too much baggage, and could not
think of anything so easy to be dispensed with as his own wearing
apparel - those shirts the ladies made him just before he left
home, his black suit and overcoat - these were the condemned
articles. Sell them he must, as soon as he gets to the fort. But
first I would not believe him in earnest. All the reasons I could
bring were of no avail - he still said he must get rid of them. I
told him to sell all of mine, too; I could do without them better
than he could. Indeed, I did not wish to dress unless he could. I
finally said that I would write and get Sister Julia to plead for
me, for I knew you would not like to have him sell them, better
than I should. This was enough; he knew it would not do to act
contrary to her wishes, and said no more about it.
July
16th. - When I wrote this letter I expected to send it
immediately, but we did not meet the party expected, and have had
no opportunity since. We are now at the Rocky Mountains, at the
encampment of Messrs. McLeod and McKay, expecting to leave on
Monday morning for Walla Walla. It seems a special favor that that
company has come to Rendezvous this season; for otherwise we would
have had to have gone with the Indians a difficult route, and so
slow that we should have been late at Walla Walla, and not have
had the time we wanted to make preparations for winter. Husband
has written the particulars of our arrival, meeting the Indians,
etc., to Brother Henry.
One
particular I will mention, which he did not. As soon as I alighted
from my horse, I was met by a company of matrons, native women one
after another shaking hands and saluting me with a most hearty
kiss. This was unexpected and affected me very much. They gave
Sister Spalding the same salutation. After we had been seated
awhile in the midst of the gazing throng, one of the chiefs, whom
we had seen before, came with his wife and very politely
introduced her to us. They say they all like us very much, and
thank God that they have seen us, and that we have come to live
with them.
It
was truly pleasing to see the meeting of Richard and John with
their friends. Richard was affected to tears. His father is not
here, but several of his tribe and brethren are. When they met
each took off his hat and shook hands, as respectfully as in
civilized life. Richard does not give up the idea of again seeing
Rushville.
Your
affection sister,
NARCISSA.
July
18th. Under the protection of Mr. McLeod and his company we left
the Rendezvous and came ten miles in a southwesterly direction.
The Flatheads and some of the Snake Indians accompanied us a short
distance. We make but one camp a day.
On
the 22nd we had a tedious ride, as we traveled till half-past four
P.M. I thought of mother's bread, as a child would, but did not
find it on the table, I should relish it extremely well; have been
living on buffalo meat until I am cloyed with it.
Have
been in a peaceful state of mind all day. Had a freedom in prayer
for my beloved parents; blessed privilege that such a sinner as I
may have access to a mercy seat, through such a Saviour as Jesus
Christ. It is good to feel that he is all I want, and all my
righteousness; and if I had ten thousand lives I would give them
all for him. I long to be more like him - to possess more of his
meek spirit.
July 25th.
- Came fifteen miles to-day; encamped on Smith's creek, a small
branch of Bear creek. The ride has been very mountainous - paths
winding on the sides of steep mountains. In some places the path
is so narrow as scarcely to afford room for the animal to place
his foot. One after another we pass along with cautious step.
Passed a creek on which was a fine bunch of gooseberries, nearly
ripe.
Husband
has had a tedious time with the wagon to-day. It got stuck in the
creek this morning when crossing, and he was obliged to wade
considerably in getting it out. After that, in going between the
mountains, on the side of one, so steep that it was difficult for
horses pass, the wagon was upset twice; did not wonder at this at
all; it was a greater wonder that it was not turning somersaults
continually. It is not very grateful to my feelings to see him
wearing out with such excessive fatigue, as I am obliged to. He is
not as fleshy as he was last winter. All the most difficult part
of the way he has walked, in laborious attempts to take the wagon.
Ma knows what my feelings are.
26th.
- Did not move camp today. Mr. McKay has been preparing to send
out trappers from this place. Husband has been sick to-day, and so
lame with the rheumatism as to be scarcely able to move. It is a
great privilege that we can lie still to-day on his account, for
he needs rest.
27th.
- had quite a level route to-day - came down Bear river. Mr. McKay
sent off about thirty of his men as trappers to-day. Several
lodges of Indians also left us to go in another direction, and we
expect more to leave us to-morrow. They wish to go a different
route from Mr. McLeod, and desire us to go with them; but it would
be more difficult and lengthy than Mr. McLeod's. We are still in a
dangerous country; but our company is large enough for safety. Our
cattle endure the journey remarkably well. They supply us with
sufficient milk for our tea and coffee, which is indeed a luxury.
We are obliged to shoe some of them because of sore feet. Have
seen no buffalo since we left Rendezvous. Have had no game of any
kind except a few messes of antelope, which an Indian gave us. We
have plenty of dried buffalo meat, which we have purchased from
the Indians - and dry it is for me. It appears so filthy! I can
scarcely eat it; but it keeps us alive, and we ought to be
thankful for it. We have had a few meals of fresh fish, also,
which we relished well, and have the prospect of obtaining plenty
in one or two weeks more. Have found no berries; neither have I
found any of Ma's bread (Girls, do not waste the bread; if you
knew how well I should relish even the driest morsel, you would
save every piece carefully.) Do not think I regret coming. No, far
from it; I would not go back for a world. I am contented and
happy, notwithstanding I sometimes get very hungry and weary. Have
six week's steady journey before us. Feel sometimes as if it were
a long time to be traveling. Long for rest, but must not murmur.
Feel
to pity the poor Indian women, who are continually traveling in
this manner during their lives, and know no other comfort. They do
all the work and are the complete slaves of their husbands. I am
making some little progress in their language; long to be able to
converse with them about the Saviour.
28th.
- Very mountainous all the way to-day; came over another ridge;
rode from 8 A.M. to 2 P.M. We thought yesterday the Indians were
all going to leave us, except two or three; but not one has. They
fear to, on account of the Blackfeet tribe, who would destroy them
all, if they could. One of the axle-trees of the wagon broke
to-day; was a little rejoiced, for we were in hopes they would
leave it, and have no more trouble with it. Our rejoicing was in
vain for they are making a cart of the back wheels, this
afternoon, and lashing the fore wheels to it-intending to take it
through in some shape or other. They are so resolute and untiring
in their efforts they will probably succeed.
Had
some fresh fish for breakfast and some antelope for supper, sent
us by Mr. McLeod and other friends in camp. Thus the Lord
provides, and smoothes all our ways for us, giving us strength.
July
29th. - Mr. Gray was quite sick this morning and inclined to fall
behind. Husband and I rode with him about two hours and a half,
soon after which he gave out entirely. I was sent on, and soon
after husband left him to come and get the cart; but I overtook an
Indian, who went back and soon met husband, and both returned to
Mr. Gray. The Indian helped him on his horse, got on behind him,
supported him in his arms and in this manner slowly came into
camp. This was welcome relief, and all rejoiced to see them come
in; for some of us had been riding seven hours, others eight,
without any nourishment.
[The
next sheet of the journal is missing, which contains the account
of their arrival at Fort Hall, where, she says,] We were
hospitably entertained by Captain Thing, who keeps the fort. It
was built by Captain Wyeth, a gentleman from Boston, whom we saw
at Rendezvous on his way east. Our dinner consisted of dry buffalo
meat, turnips and fried bread, which was a luxury. Mountain bread
is simply coarse flour and water mixed and roasted or fried in
buffalo grease. To one who has had nothing but meat for a long
time, this relishes well. For tea we had the same, with the
addition of some stewed serviceberries.
The
buildings of the fort are made of hewed logs, with roofs covered
with mud brick chimneys and fireplaces also being built of the
same; no windows, except a square hole in the roof, and in the
bastion a few port holes large enough for guns only. The buildings
were all enclosed in a strong log wall. This affords them a place
of safety when attacked by hostile Indians, as they frequently
are, the fort being in the Blackfeet country.
Since
dinner we visited the garden and corn fields. The turnips in the
garden appeared thrifty - the tops very large and tall, but the
roots small. The peas looked small; but most of them had been
gathered by the mice. Saw a few onions, that were going to seed,
which looked quite natural. This was all the garden contained. He
told us his own did extremely well until the 8th of June, when the
frost of one night completely prostrated it. It has since came up
again, but does not look as well as it did before. This is their
first attempt at cultivation.
The
buildings at Fort William, on Laramie Fork of the Platte, are made
the same, but are larger and more finished than here. Here we have
stools to sit on - there we had very comfortable chairs, bottomed
with buffalo skin. Thus you see we have a house of entertainment
almost or quite as often as Christian of the Pilgrim's Progress
did. We expect one more before we get to Walla Walla; that is
Snake Fort [Boise], belonging to Mr. McKay, who is journeying with
us.
From
this on our company will be small. The Indians all leave us to-day
except one or two who go with us to assist in driving the cattle -
Kentuck, who went with Mr. Parker last year, and the chief,
Rottenbelly. The whole tribe are exceedingly anxious to have us go
with them. They use every argument they can invent to prevail on
us to do so - and not only argument but strategy. We all think it
not best; we are very much fatigued, and wish to get through as
soon as possible. To go with them would take us two months or
more, when now we expect to go to Walla Walla in twenty-five days.
When we get there rest will be sweet to us; so will it be to the
Christian when he gets to Heaven. Will father and mother get there
before I do? If so, then they will be ready to greet me on the
threshold. Here we have raised our Ebenezer saying, "Hitherto
the Lord hath helped us." Now we leave it and pass on. Our
animals are nearly ready. It is now half-past two and we expect to
go but a short distance and encamp.
Aug.
5th. Morn; came all of ten miles last evening, and did not arrive
here till after dark. Mr. McLeod and his company started earlier
than we did, intending to come but a little way. We could not get
ready to come with him, and the man who piloted us led us wrong -
much out of the way. Those on whom we depended to drive cattle
disappointed us. Husband and myself fell in behind them to assist
John Alts, who was alone with them. This made us later into camp
than the rest of our company. We came through several swamps, and
all the last part of the way we were so swarmed with mosquitoes as
to be scarcely able to see - especially while crossing the Port Neuf, which we did, just before coming into camp. It is the widest
river I have forded on horseback. It seemed the cows would run mad
for the mosquitoes; we could scarcely get them along. Mr. McLeod
met us and invited us to tea, which was a great favor. Thus
blessings gather thick around us. We have been in the mountains so
long we find the scenery of this valley very grateful to the eye -
a large stream on my right and one on my left, skirted with
timber. At Fort Hall was our first sight of Snake river. We shall
follow the south side of it for many days. We have passed many
places where the soil is good, and would be fertile if there were
frequent rains; but usually the country is barren, and would be a
sandy desert were it not for the sage brush.
Eve.
We passed the American Falls on Snake river just after dinner. The
roar of the water is heard at a considerable distance. We stopped
during the greatest heat for rest and dinner. Now that the Indians
are no longer with us we shall expect to make two camps. I expect
this to be a great mercy to us weak females, for it was more than
we could well endure to travel during the heat of the day without
refreshment.
Aug.
6th. - Route very bad and difficult to-day. We crossed a small
stream full of falls. The only pass where we could cross was just
on the edge of rocks above one of the falls. While the pack
animals were crossing, both ours and the company's, there was such
a rush as to crowd two of our horses over the falls, both packed
with dried meat. It was with great difficulty they were got out,
one of them having been nearly an hour much to his injury. We have
a little rice to eat with our dry meat, given us by Mr. McLeod,
which makes it relish quite well.
Aug.
7th. - Sabbath; came fifteen miles and camped at a fine place,
with plenty of good grass for our weary animals. Thus are
blessings so mingled that it seems as if there was nothing else
but mercy and blessings all the way. Was there ever a journey like
this performed where the sustaining hand of God has been so
manifest every morning. Surely the children of Israel could not
have been more sensible of the pillar of fire by night than we
have been of that hand that has led us thus safely on. God had
heard prayer in our behalf, and even now while I am writing on
this holy day is the sweet incense of prayer ascending before the
throne of Heavenly grace. Nor are we forgotten by our beloved
churches, at home in the prayers of the Sanctuary, we are too
sensible of its blessed effects to believe otherwise; and oh! how
comforting is this thought to the heart of the missionary. We love
to think and talk of home with such feelings as these. It warms
our hearts and strengthens and encourages us in the work of our
beloved Master, and make our journeyings easy.
Aug.
8th, Monday. - Snake river. We have an excellent camp ground
to-night; plenty of feed for our horses and cattle. We think it
remarkable that our cattle should endure the journey as well as
they do. We have two suckling calves that appear to be in very
good spirits; they suffer some from sore feet - otherwise they
have come on well and will go through. Have come eighteen miles
to-day and have taken it so deliberately that it has been easy for
us. The hunters came in last night well loaded; they had been in
the mountains two days after game and killed three elk and two
antelope. This is the first elk meat we have had, and it is the
last opportunity we expect to have of taking any more game. We are
told that many have traveled the whole distance from Rendezvous to
Walla Walla without any fresh meat. We think our will last until
we reach the salmon fishing at Snake Falls. Thus we are well
provided for contrary to our expectations. Mr. McLeod has
excellent hunters; this is the reason why we live so well. There
is but little game and that is found at a great distance from the
route.
11th.
- Tuesday and Wednesday have been tedious days, both for man and
beast - lengthy marches without water; rocky and sandy. Had a
present to-night of a fresh salmon; also a plate of fried cakes
from Mr. McLeod. (Girls, if you wish to know how they taste you
can have pleasure by taking a little flour and water, make some
dough, and roll it thin, cut it into square blocks, then take some
beef fat and fry them. You need not put either salt or pear
lash in
your dough.) Believe me, I relish them as well as I ever did any
made at home.
12th.
- Friday; raised camp this morning at sunrise and came two hours
ride to the salmon fishery. Found a few lodges of Diggers, of the
Snake tribe, so called because they live on roots during winter,
who had just commenced fishing. Obtained some and boiled it for
our breakfast. Find it good eating; had we been a few days earlier
we should not have been able to obtain any fish, for they had but
just come up. They never go higher than these falls and come here
every season.
Friday
eve. - Dear Harriet, the little trunk you gave me has come with me
so far, and now I must leave it here alone. Poor little trunk, I
am sorry to leave thee; thou must abide here alone, and no more by
thy presence remind me of my dear Harriet. Twenty miles below the
falls on Snake river this shall be thy place of rest. Farewell,
little trunk, I thank thee for thy faithful services, and that I
have been cheered by thy presence so long. Thus we scatter as we
go along. The hills are so steep and rocky that husband thought it
best to lighten the wagon as much as possible and take nothing but
the wheels, leaving the box with my trunk. I regret leaving
anything that came from home, especially that trunk, but it is
best. It would have been better for me not to have attempted to
bring any baggage whatever, only what was necessary to use on the
way. It costs so much labor, besides the expense of animals. If I
were to make the journey again I would make quite different
preparations. To pack and unpack so many times, and cross so many
streams where the packs frequently get wet, requires no small
amount of labor, besides the injury of the articles. Our books,
what few we have, have been wet several times. In going from
Elmira to Williamsport this trunk fell into the creek and wet all
my books, and Richard's, too, several times. The sleigh box came
off and all of us came near a wetting likewise. The custom of the
country is to possess nothing, and then you will lose nothing
while traveling. Farewell for the present.
13th.
- Saturday; Dear Harriet, Mr. McKay has asked the privilege of
taking the little trunk along, so that my soliloquy about it last
night was for naught. However, it will do me no good, it may him.
We
have come fifteen miles and have had the worst route in all the
journey for the cart. We might have had a better one but for being
misled by some of the company who started out before the leaders.
It was two o'clock before we came into camp.
The
river is divided by two islands into three branches, and is
fordable. The packs are placed upon the tops of the highest horses
and in this way we crossed without wetting. Two of the tallest
horses were selected to carry Mrs. Spalding and myself over. Mr.
McLeod gave me his and rode mine. The last branch we rode as much
as half a mile in crossing and against the current, too, which
made it hard for the horses, the water being up to their sides.
Husband had considerable difficulty in crossing the cart. Both
cart and mules were turned upside down in the river and entangled
in the harness. The mules would have been drowned but for a
desperate struggle to get them ashore. Then after putting two of
the strongest horses before the cart, and two men swimming behind
to steady it, they succeeded in getting it across. I once thought
that crossing streams would be the most dreaded part of the
journey. I can now cross the most difficult stream without the
least fear. There is one manner of crossing which husband has
tried but I have not, neither do I wish to. Take an elk skin and
stretch it over you, spreading yourself out as much as possible,
then let the Indian women carefully put you on the water and with
a cord in the mouth they will swim and draw you over. Edward, how
do you think you would like to travel in this way?
15th.
- Yesterday Mr. McLeod with most of his men left us, wishing to
hasten his arrival at Snake Fort, leaving us a pilot and his
weakest animals to come in with us at our leisure. This is a
relief to us, as it is difficult to bring our cattle up to the
speed they wish to travel. We passed the hot springs just before
noon, which was quite a curiosity. Boiled a bit of dry salmon in
one of them in five minutes.
16th.
- This eve found plenty of berries called hawthorn on the stream
where we have encamped. They are large as a cherry and taste much
like a mealy sweet apple. Our route on this side of Snake river is
less hilly and difficult than on the south side, and said to be
two days shorter.
19th.
- Arrived at Snake Fort, Boise, about noon. It is situated on Bigwood river, so called because the timber is larger than any to
be seen this side of the mountains. It consists chiefly of cotton
wood and is small compared with timber in the states. Snake Fort
is owned and built by Mr. Thomas McKay, one of our company, whom
we expect to leave here. He, with Mr. McLeod, gave us a hearty
welcome; dined with them. Mr. McLeod was ready to leave on the
morrow, but said he would stay a day longer to give us the
opportunity of doing some necessary work, for which we were
thankful.
20th.
- Saturday. Last night I put my clothes in water and this morning
finished washing before breakfast. This is the third time I have
washed since I left home-once at Fort Williams and once at
Rendezvous. Mr. McLeod called this evening to see if we were ready
to leave. He observed we had been so engaged in labor as to have
no time for rest, and proposed for ourselves to remain over
Sabbath. This I can assure you was a favor for which we can never
be too thankful, for our souls need the rest of the Sabbath as
well as our bodies.
21st.
- Sabbath. Rich with heavenly blessings has the day of rest been
to my soul. Mr. Spalding was invited to preach in the Fort at 11
o'clock. The theme was the character of the blessed Savior. All
listened with good attention.
22d.
- Left the Fort yesterday; came a short distance to the crossing
of Snake river, crossed and encamped for the night. The river had
three branches, divided by islands, as it was when we crossed
before. The first and second places were very deep, but we had no
difficulty in crossing on horseback. The third was deeper still;
we dare not venture horseback. This being a fishing post of the
Indians, we easily found a canoe, made of rushes and willows, on
which we placed ourselves and our saddles (Sister Spalding and
myself), when two Indians on horseback, each with a rope attached
to the canoe, towed us over. (O! if father and mother and the
girls could have seen us in our snug little canoe, floating on the
water.) We were favorites of the company. No one else was
privileged with a ride on it. I wish I could give you a correct
idea of this little bark. It is simply bunches of rushes tied
together, and attached to a frame made of a few sticks of small
willows. It was just large enough to hold us and our saddles. Our
baggage was transported on the top of our tallest horses, without
wetting.
As
for the wagon, it is left at the Fort, and I have nothing to say
about crossing it at this time. Five of our cattle were left there
also, to be exchanged for others at Walla Walla. Perhaps you will
wonder why we have left the wagon, having taken it so nearly
through. Our animals were failing, and the route in crossing the
Blue Mountains is said to be impassable for it. We have the
prospect of obtaining one in exchange at Vancouver. If we do not
we shall send for it, when we have been to so much labor in
getting it thus far. It is a useful article in the country.
Now,
for Edward's amusement, and that he may know how to do when he
comes over the Rocky Mountains, I will tell how we got the cattle
over the rivers. Our two Indian boys, Richard and John, have had
the chief management of driving them all the way, and are to be
commended for the patience they have manifested. They have had
some one or two to help usually, but none so steady drivers as
themselves. When a stream is to be crossed, where it is necessary
for the animals to swim, Richard comes back after the cows. Having
obtained consent he rides over, accompanied by his fellow drivers,
all stripped to the shirt. Then they return with their horses, if
the stream is wide and difficult. If not they leave their horses,
tie their shifts over their heads, swim back, collect the cows and
drive them through, all swimming after them. If the stream is very
wide, and they return with their horses, they drive them swimming
on the horses behind them. This saves them from the too great
fatigue of swimming for the river twice. They love to swim, as
they love to eat, and by doing so have saved me many an anxious
feeling, for the relief it has given my husband many times. In
this case all the horses and mules were driven across likewise.
Usually the best Indian swimmer was selected and mounted the horse
that was good for leading to go before the animals as a guide,
while many others swim after them to drive them over. When once
under way, such a snorting and halloaing you never heard. At the
same time you can see nothing save so many heads floating upon the
water. Soon they gain the opposite shore, triumphantly ascend its
banks, shake themselves, and retire to their accustomed
employment.
26th.
- Friday. On account of our worn out cattle and horses, it was
thought best to separate from Mr. McLeod's party, at least some of
us, and travel more deliberately. Two mules and a horse have
almost entirely given out. It is necessary that some of our party
go to Vancouver immediately for supplies and see Mr. Parker before
he leaves. It was thought best for my husband and Mr. Gray to go.
As Mr. McLeod intended to make but a day's stop at Walla Walla, we
came on with him, leaving Mr. and Mrs. Spalding, the hired men,
with most of our baggage, and the Nez Perce chief, Rottenbelly, to
pilot them in. We parted from them about 3 o'clock and came as far
as the Lone Tree. The place called Lone Tree is a beautiful valley
in the region of Powder river, in the center of which is a
solitary tree, quite large, but the side of which travellers
usually stop and refresh themselves. We left our tent for Mrs.
Spalding, as we expect to be out only a few nights, while she
might be out many. Mr. McLeod kindly offered his for my use and
when I arrived in camp found it pitched and in readiness for me.
This was a great favor as the wind blew quite hard and the
prospect was for a cool night.
August
27th. - Came in sight of the hill that leads to the Grande Ronde.
This morning Mr. McLeod remained behind in pursuit of game, and
did not come into camp until we had made a long nooning, although
we had begun to feel a little concerned about him, yet about 3
o'clock he came into camp loaded with wild ducks, having taken
twenty-two. Now, mother, he had just, as he always did during the
whole journey, sent over nine of them. Here also, Richard caught
fresh salmon, which made us another good meal, and if we had been
out of provisions we might have made dinner upon the fresh-water
clams, for the river was full of them.
Girls,
how do you think we manage to rest ourselves every noon, having no
house to shelter us from the scorching heat, or sofa on which to
recline? Perhaps you think we always encamp in the shade of some
thick wood. Such a sight I have not seen, lo, these many weeks. If
we can find a few small willows or a single lone tree, we think
ourselves amply provided for. But often our camping places are in
some open plain and frequently a sand plain, but even here is rest
and comfort. My husband, who is one of the best the world ever
knew, is always ready to provide a comfortable shade, with one of
our saddle-blankets spread upon some willows or sticks placed in
the ground. Our saddles, fishamores and the other blankets placed
upon the ground constitute our sofa where we recline and rest
until dinner is ready. How do you think you would like this? Would
you not think a seat by mother, in some cool room preferable?
Sometimes my wicked heart has been disposed to murmur, thinking I
should have no rest from the heat when we stopped, but I have
always been reproved for it by the comfort and rest received.
Under the circumstances I have never wished to go back. Such a
thought never finds a place in my heart. "The Lord is better
to us than our fears." I always find it so.
[August]
28th. This morning lingered with husband on the top of the hill
that overlooks the Grande Ronde, for berries until we were some
distance behind camp. We have now no distressing apprehensions the
moment we are out of sight of the camp, for we have entirely
passed the dangerous country. I always enjoy riding alone with
him, especially when we talk about home friends. It is then the
tedious hours are sweetly decoyed away.
We
descend a very steep hill in coming into Grande Ronde, at the foot
of which is a beautiful cluster of pitch and spruce pine trees,
but no white pine like that I have been accustomed to see at home.
Grande Ronde is indeed a beautiful place. It is a circular plain,
surrounded by lofty mountains, and has a beautiful stream coursing
through it, skirted with quite large timber. The scenery while
passing through it is quite delightful in some places and the soil
rich; in other places we find the white sand and sedge, as usual,
so common to this country. We nooned upon Grande Ronde river.
The
camas grows here in abundance, and it is the principal resort of
the Cayuses and many other tribes, to obtain it, as they are very
fond of it. It resembles an onion in shape and color, when cooked
is very sweet and tastes like a fig. Their manner of cooking them
is very curious: They dig a hole in the ground, throw in a heap of
stones, heat them to a red heat, cover them with green grass, upon
which they put the camas, and cover the whole with earth. When
taken out it is black. This is the chief food of many tribes
during winter.
After
dinner we left the plain and ascended the Blue Mountains. Here a
new and pleasing scene presented itself-mountains covered with
timber, through which we rode all the afternoon; a very agreeable
change. The scenery reminded me of the hills in my native country
of Streuben.
29th.
- Had a combination of the same scenery as yesterday afternoon.
Rode over many logs and obstructions that we had not found since
we left the states. Here I frequently met old acquaintances in the
trees and flowers, and was not a little delighted; indeed, I do
not know as I was ever so much affected with any scenery in my
life. The singing of birds, the echo of voices of my fellow
travelers, as they were scattered through the woods, all had a
strong resemblance to bygone days. But this scenery was of short
duration-only one day.
Before
noon we began to descend one of the most terrible mountains for
steepness and length I have yet seen. It was like winding stairs
in its descent, and in some places almost perpendicular. The
horses appeared to dread the hill as much as we did. They would
turn and wind around in a zigzag manner all the way down. The men
usually walked, but I could not get permission to, neither did I
desire it much.
We
had no sooner gained the foot of this mountain than another more
steep and dreadful was before us. After dinner and rest we
descended it. Mount Pleasant, in Prattsburg, would not compare
with these Mount Terribles. Our ride this afternoon exceeded
anything we have had yet, and what rendered it the more
aggravating was the fact that the path all the way was very stony,
resembling a newly macadamized road. Our horses' feet were very
tender, all unshod, so that we could not make the progress we
wished. The mountain in many places was covered with this black
broken basalt. We were very late in making camp to-night. After
ascending the mountain we kept upon the main divide until sunset,
looking in vain for water and a camping place. While upon this
elevation we had a view of the Valley of the Columbia River. It
was beautiful. Just as we gained the highest elevation and began
to descend the sun was dipping his disk behind the western
horizon. Beyond the valley we could see two distinct mountains -
Mount Hood and Mount St. Helens. These lofty peaks were of a
conical form, separated from each other by a considerable
distance. Behind the former the sun was hiding part of his rays,
which gave us a more distinct view of this gigantic cone. The
beauty of this extensive valley contrasted well with the rolling
mountains behind us, and at this hour of twilight was enchanting
and quite diverted my mind from the fatigue under which I was
laboring. We had yet to descend a hill as long, but not as steep
or as stony as the other. By this time our horses were in haste to
be in camp, as well as ourselves, and mine made such lengthy
strides in descending that it shook my sides surprisingly. It was
dark when we got into camp, but the tent was ready for me, and tea
also, for Mr. McLeod invited us to sup with him.
Dearest
mother, let me tell you how I am sustained of the Lord in all this
journey. For two or three days past I have felt weak, restless and
scarcely able to sit on my horse - yesterday in particular. But
see how I have been diverted by the scenery, and carried out of
myself in conversation about home and friends. Mother will
recollect what my feelings were and had been for a year previous
to our leaving home. The last revival enjoyed, my visit to
Onondaga and the scenes there - these I call my last impressions
of home, and they are of such a character that when we converse
about home these same feelings are revived and I forget that I am
weary and want rest. This morning my feelings were a little
peculiar; felt remarkably strong and well - so much so as to
mention it - but could not see any reason why I should feel any
more rested than on the morning previous. Then I began to see what
a day's ride was before me, and I understood it. If I had had no
better health to-day than yesterday I should have fainted under
it. Then the promise appeared in full view: "As thy day, so
shall thy strength be," and my soul rejoiced in God, and
testifies to the truth of another evidently manifest, "Lo, I
am with you always."
30th.
- In consequence of the lengthy camp yesterday, and failure of
animals, two of the company's men left their animals behind, with
packs also. This occasioned some anxiety, lest the wolves should
destroy their beaver. To-day they send back for them, and we make
but a short move to find more grass. On following the course of
the stream on which we encamped last night we found cherries in
abundance, and had time to stop and gather as many as we wished.
They are very fine - equal to any we find in the States. When we
arrived Mr. Gray had the dinner waiting for us. This afternoon the
men rested and made preparations to enter Walla Walla. The men who
went for the animals returned late. We all regretted this
hindrance, for Mr. McLeod intended to see Walla Walla to-day and
return again with a muskmelon for Mrs. Whitman (so he said). he
will go in tomorrow. It is the custom of the country to send
heralds ahead to announce the arrival of a party and prepare for
their reception.
31st.
- Came to the Walla Walla river, within eight miles of the Fort (Wallula).
Husband and I were very much exhausted with this day's lengthy
ride. Most of the way was sandy with no water for many miles. When
we left Mr. Spalding husband rode an Indian horse when he had
never mounted before and found him a hard rider in every gait
except a gallop, and slow in his movements, nor could he pace as
mine did, so for the last six days we have galloped most of the
way where the ground would admit of it.
September
1st, 1836 You can better imagine our feelings this morning than we
can describe them. I could not realize that the end of our long
journey was so near. We arose as soon as it was light, took a cup
of coffee, ate of the duck we had given us last night and dressed
for Walla Walla. We started while it was yet early, for all were
in haste to reach the desired haven. If you could have seen us you
would have been surprised, for both man and beast appeared alike
propelled by the same force. The whole company galloped almost the
whole way to the Fort. The fatigues of the long journey seemed to
be forgotten in the excitement of being so near the close. Soon
the Fort appeared in sight and when it was announced that we were
near Mr. McLeod, Mr. Pambrun, the gentleman of the house, and Mr.
Townsend (a traveling naturalist) sallied forth to meet us. After
usual introduction and salutation we entered the Fort and were
comfortably seated in cushioned armed chairs. They were just
eating breakfast as we rode up and soon we were seated at the
table and treated to fresh salmon, potatoes, tea, bread and
butter. What a variety, thought I. You cannot imagine what an
appetite these rides in the mountains give a person. I wish some
of the feeble ones in the states could have a ride in the
mountains; they would say like me, victuals, even the plainest
kind, never relished so well before.
After
breakfast we were shown the novelties of the place. While at
breakfast, however, a young rooster placed himself upon the sill
of the door and crowed. Now whether it was the sight of the first
white woman, or out of compliment to the company, I know not, but
this much for him, I was pleased with his appearance. You may
think me simple for speaking of such a small circumstance. No one
knows the feelings occasioned by seeing objects once familiar
after a long deprivation. Especially when it is heightened by no
expectation of meeting with them. The door-yard was filled with
hens, turkeys and pigeons. And in another place we saw cows and
goats in abundance, and I think the largest and fattest cattle and
swine I ever saw.
We
were soon shown a room which Mr. Pambrun said he had prepared for
us, by making two bedsteads or bunks, on hearing of our approach.
It was the west bastion of the Fort, full of port holes in the
sides, but no windows, and filled with fire-arms. A large cannon,
always loaded, stood behind the door by one of the holes. These
things did not disturb me. I am so well pleased with the
possession of a room to shelter me from the scorching sun that I
scarcely notice them. Having arranged our things we were soon
called to a feast of melons; the first, I think, I ever saw or
tasted. The muskmelon was the largest, measuring eighteen in
length, fifteen around the small end and nineteen around the large
end. You may be assured that none of us were satisfied or willing
to leave the table until we had filled our plates with chips.
At
four o'clock we were called to dine. It consisted of pork,
cabbage, turnips, tea, bread and butter; my favorite dishes, and
much like the last dinner I ate with Mother Loomis. I am thus
particular in my description of eatables so that you may be
assured that we find something to eat beyond the Rocky mountains
as well as at home. We find plenty of salt, but many here prefer
to do almost, and some entirely without it, on their meats and
vegetables.
Sept.
2d. - Have busied myself to-day in unpacking my trunk and
arranging my things for a visit to Vancouver. Mother will wonder
at this and think me a strange child for wishing to add three
hundred miles to this journey; not from necessity, but because my
husband is going, and I may as well go as to stay here alone. If
we were obliged to go on horseback, I think I should not wish to
undertake it, but we are going in a boat and it will not take us
more than six days to go there. A very agreeable change and I
think I shall enjoy it as well as to stay here. I feel remarkably
well and rested-do not need to lounge at all, and so it is with us
all. I can scarcely believe it possible of myself, but it is true,
I feel as vigorous and as well able to engage in any domestic
employment as I ever did in my life.
I
have not yet introduced you to the lady of the house. She is a
native, from a tribe east of the mountains. She appears well, does
not speak English, but her native language and French. The cooking
and housework is done by men chiefly. Mr. Pambrun is from Canada,
and much of the gentlemen in his appearance.
Sept.
3d. - Messrs. McLeod and Townsend left for Vancouver to-day, but
Mr. McLeod is so loaded as not to be able to give us a comfortable
passage. Mr. Pambrun is going by himself next week and offers us a
passage with him.
About
noon Mr. and Mrs. Spalding arrived with their company, having made
better progress than was anticipated. Here we are all at Walla
Walla, through the mercy of a kind Providence, in health and all
our lives preserved. What cause for gratitude and praise to God!
Surely my heart is ready to leap for joy at the thought of being
so near the long-desired work of teaching the benighted ones the
knowledge of a Savior, and having completed this hazardous journey
under such favorable circumstances. Mr. Pambrun said to us the day
we arrived, that there had never been a company previous to ours,
that came into the Fort so well fed as ours for the last days of
the journey. All our friends of the East company, who knew
anything about the country, dreaded this part for us very much.
But the Lord has been with us and provided for us all the way, and
blessed be his holy name. Another cause for gratitude is the
preservation of our animals, in this difficult, dangerous and
lengthy route, while many parties previous to ours have had every
animal taken from them, and been left on foot in a dangerous land,
exposed to death. Two horses have given out with fatigue and have
been left, two have been stolen or lost, but most that we have
now, have come all the way from the settlements, and appear well.
Two calves only have been lost. The remainder came on well except
those we left at Snake Fort.
Sabbath,
4th. - This has been a day of mutual thanksgiving with us all.
Assembled at the Fort at 12 o'clock for worship, our feelings are
better imagined than described. This first Sabbath in September, a
Sabbath of rest; first after completing a long journey, first in
the vicinity of our future labors. All of us here before God. It
is not enough for us alone to be thankful. Will not my beloved
friends at home, the disciples of Jesus, unite with us in
gratitude and praise to God for his great mercy? It is in answer
to your prayers that we are here and are permitted to see this day
under such circumstances. Feel to dedicate myself renewedly to His
service among the heathen, and may the Lord's hand be as evidently
manifest in blessing our labors among them, as it has been in
bringing us here, and that, too, in answer to your prayers,
beloved Christian friends.
5th.
- Mr. and Mrs. Spalding have concluded to go with us to Vancouver,
so nothing can be done by either of the parties about location
until the Indians return from their summer's hunt. Expect to leave
tomorrow. Have had exceedingly high winds for two days and nights
past, to which the place is subject. Our room shakes and the wind
makes such a noise that we can scarcely hear each other converse.
Sept.
7, 1836. - We set sail from Walla Walla yesterday at two o'clock
p.m. Our boat is an open one, manned with six oars, and the
steersman. I enjoy it much; it is a very pleasant change in our
manner of traveling. The Columbia is a beautiful river. Its waters
are clear as crystal and smooth as a sea of glass, exceeding in
beauty the Ohio; but the scenery on each side of it is very
different. There is no timber to be seen, but there are high
perpendicular banks of rocks in some places, while rugged bluffs
and plains of sand in others, are all that meet the eye. We sailed
until near sunset, when we landed, pitched our tents, supped our
tea, bread and butter, boiled ham and potatoes, committed
ourselves to the care of a kind Providence, and retired to rest.
This
morning we arose before sunrise, embarked and sailed until nine
o'clock, and are now landed for breakfast. Mr. Pambrun's cook is
preparing it, while husband and myself are seated by a little
shrub, writing. We are this moment called. Farewell.
8th.
- Came last night quite to the Chute (above The Dalles), a fall in
the river not navigable. There we slept, and this morning made the
portage. All were obliged to land, unload, carry our baggage, and
even the boat, for half a mile. I had frequently seen the picture
of the Indians carrying a canoe, but now I saw the reality. We
found plenty of Indians here to assist in making the portage.
After loading several with our baggage and sending them on, the
boat was capsized and placed upon the heads of about twenty of
them, who marched off with it, with perfect ease. Below the main
fall of water are rocks, deep, narrow channels, and many frightful
precipices. We walked deliberately among the rocks, viewing the
scene with astonishment, for this once beautiful river seemed to
be cut up and destroyed by these huge masses of rock. Indeed, it
is difficult to find where the main body of water passes. In high
water we are told that these rocks are all covered with water, the
river rising to such an astonishing height.
After
paying the Indians for their assistance, which was a twist of
tobacco about the length of a finger to each, we reloaded, went on
board, sailed about two miles, and stopped for breakfast. This was
done to get away from a throng of Indians. Many followed us,
however, to assist in making another portage, three miles below
this.
Sept.
9th. - We came to The Dalles just before noon. Here our boat was
stopped by two rocks of immense size and height, all the water of
the river passing between them in a very narrow channel, and with
great rapidity. Here we were obliged to land and make a portage of
two and a half miles, carrying the boat also. The Dalles is the
great resort of Indians of many tribes for taking fish. We did not
see many, however, for they had just left.
Now,
mother, if I was with you by the fireside, I would relate a scene
that would amuse you, and at the same time call forth your
sympathies. But for my own gratification I will write it. After we
landed, curiosity led us to the top of that rock, to see the
course of the river through its narrow channel. But as I expected
to walk that portage, husband thought it would be giving me too
much fatigue to do both. I went with him to its base, to remain
there until his return. I took a handful of hazelnuts and thought
I would divert myself with cracking and eating them. I had just
seated myself in the shade of the rock, ready to commence work,
when, feeling something unusual on my neck, I put my hand under my
cape and took from thence two insects, which I soon discovered to
be fleas. Immediately I cast my eyes upon my dress before me, and,
to my astonishment, found it was black with these creatures,
making all possible speed to lay siege to my neck and ears. This
sight made me almost frantic. What to do I knew not. Husband was
away, sister Spalding had gone past hearing. To stand still I
could not. I climbed up the rock in pursuit of my husband, who
soon saw and came to me. I could not tell him, but showed him the
cause of my distress. On opening the gathers of my dress around my
waist, every plait was lined with them. Thus they had already laid
themselves in ambush for a fresh attack. We brushed and shook, and
shook and brushed, for an hour, not stopping to kill for that
would have been impossible. By this time they were reduced very
considerably, and I prepared to go to the boat. I was relieved
from walking by the offer of a horse from a young chief. This was
a kindness, for the way was mostly through sand, and the walk
would have been fatiguing. I found the confinement of the boat
distressing, on account of my miserable companions, who would not
let me rest for a moment in any one position. But I was not the
only sufferer. Every one in the boat was alike troubled, both crew
and passengers. As soon as I was able to make a change in my
apparel I found relief.
We
made fine progress this morning till 9 o'clock, when we were met
with a head wind and obliged to make shore. We met the crew last
night with the Western express. This express goes from and returns
to Vancouver twice a year.
Eve.
- Have lain still all day because of the wind. This is a
detention, as we intended to have been at Vancouver by to-morrow
evening. A party of Indians came to our camp this eve. Every head
was flattened. These are the first I have seen near enough to be
able to examine them. Their eyes have a dull and heavy expression.
10th.
- High winds and not able to move at all to-day.
11th.
- We came to the Cascades for breakfast-another important fall in
the river, where we are obliged to make a portage of a mile. The
boat was towed along by the rocks with a rope over the falls. This
is another great place for salmon fishing. A boat load was just
ready for Vancouver when we arrived. I saw an infant here whose
head was in the pressing machine. This was a pitiful sight. Its
mother took great satisfaction in unbinding and showing its naked
head to us. The child lay upon a board between which and its head
was a squirrel skin. On its forehead lay a small square cushion,
over which was a bandage drawn tight around, pressing its head
against the board. In this position it is kept three or four
months or longer, until the head becomes a fashionable shape.
There is a variety of shapes among them, some being sharper than
others. I saw a child about a year old whose head had been
recently released from pressure, as I supposed from its looks. All
the back part of it was a purple color, as if it had been sadly
bruised. We are told that this custom is wearing away very fast.
There are only a few tribes of this river who practice it.
Sept.
12th. - Breakfasted at the saw mill five miles from Vancouver, and
made preparations for entering it. You may be surprised to hear of
a saw mill here when I said that there was no timber on the
Columbia. Since we passed the Cascades the scene is changed, and
we are told there is timber all the way to the coast.
Eve.
- We are now in Vancouver, the New York of the Pacific Ocean. Our
first sight, as we approached the fort, was two ships lying in the
harbor, one of which, the Neriade, Captain Royal, had just arrived
from London. The Columbia, Captain Dandy, came last May, and has
since been to the Sandwich Islands, and returned. On landing we
first met Mr. Townsend, whom we saw at Walla Walla. He is from
Philadelphia, and has been in the mountains two years. He is sent
here by a society to collect the different species of bipeds, and
quadrupeds, peculiar to this country. We brought a parcel of
letters to him, the first he had received since he had left home.
Mr. Townsend led us into the fort. But before we reached the home
of the chief Factor, Dr. McLoughlin, we were met by several
gentlemen, who came to give us a welcome, Mr. Douglas, Mr. Tolmie
and Dr. McLoughlin, of the Hudson's Bay Company, who invited us in
and seated us on the sofa. Soon we were introduced to Mrs.
McLoughlin and Mrs. Douglas, both natives of the country-half
breeds. After chatting a little we were invited to walk in the
garden.
What
a delightful place this is; what a contrast to the rough, barren
sand plains, through which we had so recently passed. Here we find
fruit of every description, apples, peaches, grapes, pears, plums,
and fig trees in abundance; also cucumbers, melons, beans, peas,
beets, cabbage, tomatoes and every kind of vegetable too numerous
to be mentioned. Every part is very neat and tastefully arranged,
with fine walks, lined on each side with strawberry vines. At the
opposite end of the garden is a good summer house covered with
grape vines. Here I must mention the origin of these grapes and
apples. A gentlemen, twelve years ago while at a party in London,
put the seeds of the grapes and apples which he ate into his vest
pocket. Soon afterwards he took a voyage to this country and left
them here, and now they are greatly multiplied.
After
promenading as much as we wished, and returning, we were met by
Mrs. Copendel, a lady from England, who arrived in the ship
Columbia last May, and Miss Maria, daughter of Dr. McLoughlin,
quite an interesting young lady. After dinner we were introduced
to Rev. Mr. Beaver and lady, a clergyman of the Church of England,
who arrived last week in the ship Neriade. This is more than we
expected when we left home-that we should be privileged with the
acquaintance and society of two English ladies. Indeed, we seem to
be nearly allied to Old England, for most of the gentlemen of the
Company are from there or Scotland.
We
have not found Rev. Samuel Parker here, to our great
disappointment. He went to Oahu in the ship Columbia, a few weeks
before we arrived. We have mourned about it considerably, for we
thought it would be so acceptable to our dear parents and friends
at home to hear him say that he had seen us alive here, after
completing this long, unheard-of journey. Besides, I wished to
send home many things which I cannot now. More than all this, his
counsels and advice would have been such a relief to us, at this
important time, as to location, character of the Indians, and the
like. But it is wisely ordered, and we submit. He appears to have
been a favorite here, and to have done much good.
The
Messrs. Lee left Vancouver on Saturday last for their station on
the Wallamet. Mr. Daniel Lee has been out of health, and for the
year past has been at Oahu. He returned on the Neriade, benefited
by his visit.
Sept.
13. - This morning visited the school to hear the children sing.
It consists of about fifty-one children, who have French fathers
and Indian mothers. All the laborers here are Canadian French,
with Indian wives. Indeed, some of the gentlemen of the company
have native wives, and have adopted the custom of the country not
to allow their wives to eat with them. French is the prevailing
language here. English is spoken only by a few.
Just
before dinner we went on board the Neriade, the first ship I ever
saw. She is a man-of-war, and goes to the Northwest coast soon.
The Columbia returns to London this fall. The Company have lost
three ships on the coast.
Sept.
14. - We were invited to a ride to see the farm. Have ridden
fifteen miles this afternoon. We visited the barns, stock, etc.
They estimated their wheat crops at four thousand bushels this
year, peas the same, oats and barley between fifteen and seventeen
hundred bushels each. The potato and turnip fields are large and
fine. Their cattle are numerous, estimated at a thousand head in
all the settlements. They have swine in abundance, also sheep and
goats, but the sheep are of an inferior kind. We find also hens,
turkeys, and pigeons, but no geese.
You
will ask what kind of beds they have here. I can tell you what
kind of bed they made for us, and I have since found it a
fashionable bed for this country. The bedstead is in the form of a
bunk, with a rough board bottom, upon which are laid about a dozen
of the Indian blankets. These with a pair of pillows covered with
calico cases constitute our beds, sheets and covering. There are
several feather beds in the place made of the feathers of wild
ducks, geese, cranes and the like. There is nothing here suitable
for ticking. The best and only material is brown linen sheeting.
The Indian ladies make theirs of deer skin. Could we obtain a pair
of geese from any quarter I should think much of them.
Sept.
16th. - Every day we have something new to see. We went to the
stores and found them filled above and below with the cargo of the
two ships, all in unbroken bales. They are chiefly Indian goods,
and will be sent away this fall to the several different posts of
the company in the ship Neriade. We have found here every article
for comfort and durability that we need, but many articles for
convenience and all fancy articles are not here.
Visited
the dairy, also, where we found butter and cheese in abundance-saw
an improvement in the manner of raising cream. Their pans are an
oblong square, quite large but shallow, flaring a little, made of
wood and lined with tin. In the center is a hole with a long plug.
When the cream has risen they place the pan over a tub or pail,
remove the plug, and the milk will run off leaving only the cream
in the pan. I think that these must be very convenient in a large
dairy. They milk between fifty and sixty cows.
On
visiting the mill we did not find it in a high state of
improvement. It goes by horse power and has a wire bolt. This
seemed a hard way of getting bread, but better so than no bread,
or to grind by hand. The company have one at Colville that goes by
water, five days ride from Walla Walla, from whence we expect to
obtain our flour, potatoes and pork. They have three hundred hogs.
Dr.
McLoughlin promises to loan us enough to make a beginning and all
the return he asks is that we supply other settlers in the same
way. He appears desirous to afford us every facility for living in
his power. No person could have received a more hearty welcome, or
be treated with greater kindness than we have been since our
arrival.
Sept.
17th. - A subject is now before the minds of certain individuals,
in which I feel a great interest. It is that we ladies spend the
winter at Vancouver, while our husbands go to seek their locations
and build. Dr. McLoughlin is certain that it will be the best for
us, and I believe is determined to have us stay. The thought of it
is not very pleasant to either of us. For several reasons, I had
rather go to Walla Walla, where, if we failed to make a location,
or of building this fall, we could stay very comfortably, and have
enough to eat, but not as comfortably, or have a s great a variety
as here; besides, there is the difficulty of ascending the river
in high water, not to say anything of a six months' separation,
when it seems to be least desirable; but all things will be
ordered for the best.
Sept.
18. - Mr. Beaver held two services in a room in Dr. McLoughlin's
barn to-day. Enjoyed the privilege much. This form of worship, of
the Church of England, differs in no way from that of the
Episcopalians in the States. The most of the gentlemen of the fort
are Scotch Presbyterians, very few being Episcopalians. The
greatmass of the laborers are Roman Catholics, who have three
services during the Sabbath, one of which is attended at this
house, at which Dr. McLoughlin officiates in French. He translates
a sermon or a tract, and reads a chapter in the Bible and a
prayer. The singing in Mr. Beaver's church was done by the
children, some of their tunes having been taught them by Rev. Mr.
Parker, and others by the Mr. Shepherd, of the Methodist mission.
Sept.
19. - The question is decided at last that we stay here about four
or five weeks. There is so much baggage to be taken up now, that
the boat will be sufficiently loaded without us. Have the cheering
promise that our husbands will come for us in a short time if
prospered. One thing comforts us. They are as unwilling to leave
us as we are to stay, and would not if it were possible for us to
go now. From this we are sure that they will make every effort to
return for us soon. We are told that the rainy season will
commence soon, and continue through the winter, and late in the
spring, while at Walla Walla there is none. Vancouver, too, is
subject to fever and ague. These are quite good reasons for
preferring Walla Walla, even if we had to live in a lodge.
Have
been making some necessary purchases for our two Indian boys,
Richard and John, which we are glad to do, partly as a reward for
their faithful care of the cattle during the journey. We left them
at Walla Walla. They regretted our leaving them, and now I cannot
feel willing to stay away from them all winter. Their anxiety to
study continues the same, especially Richard. We love them both
and feel deeply interested in their welfare, and shall treat them
as our own as long as they deserve it.
Sept.
20th. - Dr. McLoughlin gave my husband a pair of leather
pantaloons today. All the gentlemen here wear them for riding for
economy. Riding horseback and carrying a gun is very destructive
to cloth pantaloons.
Our
husbands have been making preparations to leave us to-day, but
have found so much to do that they could not get ready to leave
much before night. They have concluded to start the boat a short
distance and camp, while they, with Mr. Pambrun and Mr. Gray,
remain in the Fort to leave early in the morning.
Sept.
21. - Our friends left us this morning early. One thing I should
have mentioned, as decided upon before they left, was the
propriety of making two stations. After consideration it was
decided best to do so for several reasons. The Cayuses as well as
the Nez Perces are very anxious to have teachers among them. They
are a numerous tribe not numerous, but wealthy and influential.-M.
Eells] and speak the same language as the Nez Perces. There are
other fields open ready for the harvest and we wish that there
were many more laborers here ready to occupy them immediately.
Several places have been recommended which our husbands intend
visiting before they fix upon any place. You will recollect that
we had Grande Ronde in view as a location when we left home. Our
reasons for not fixing upon that place are insurmountable. The
pass in the Blue mountains is so difficult and the distance so
great that it would be next to impossible to think of obtaining
supplies sufficient for our support. We could not depend upon
game, for it is very scarce and uncertain. Mr. Parker recommends a
place on the Kooskooska (Clearwater) river, six days' ride above
Walla Walla. I hope to give you our exact location before I send
this.
Sept.
22. - Dr. McLoughlin has put his daughter in my care and wishes me
to hear her recitations. Thus I shall have enough to do for
diversion while I stay. I could employ all my time in writing and
work for myself if it were not for his wishes.
I
have not given you a description of our eatables here. There is
such a variety I know not where to begin. For breakfast we have
coffee or cocoa, salt salmon and roast ducks with potatoes. When
we have eaten our supply of them, our plates are changed and we
make a finish on bread and butter.
For
dinner we have a greater variety. First we are always treated to a
dish of soup, which is very good. All kinds of vegetables in use
are taken, chopped fine, and put into water with a little rice, ad
boiled to a soup. The tomatoes are a prominent article, and
usually some fowl meat, duck or other kind, is cut fine and added.
If it has been roasted once it is just as good (so the cook says),
and then spiced to the taste. After our soup dishes are removed,
then comes a variety of meats to prove our tastes. After selecting
and changing, we change plates and try another if we choose, and
so at every new dish have a clean plate. Roast duck is an everyday
dish, boiled pork, tripe, and sometimes trotters, fresh salmon or
sturgeon-yea, articles too numerous to be mentioned. When these
are set aside, a nice pudding or an apple pie is next introduced.
After this a water and a muskmelon make their appearance, and last
of all cheese, bread or biscuit and butter are produced to
complete the whole. But there is one article on the table I have
not yet mentioned, and of which I never partake. That is wine. The
gentlemen frequently drink toasts to each other, but never give us
an opportunity of refusing, for they know that we belong to the
Tetotal Society. We have talks about drinking wine, but no one
joins our society. They have a Temperance Society here and at
Wallamet, formed by Mr. Lee.
Our
tea is very plain. Bread and butter, good tea, plenty of milk and
sugar.
Sept.
30th. - We are invited to ride as often as once a week for
exercise, and we generally ride all the afternoon. To-day Mrs. McLoughlin rode with us. She keeps her old fashion of riding
gentlemen fashion. This is the universal custom of Indian women,
and they have saddles with high backs and fronts. We have been
recommended to use these saddles, a more easy way of riding, but
we have never seen the necessity of changing our fashion.
I
sing about an hour every evening with the children, teaching them
new tunes, at the request of Dr. McLoughlin. Thus I am wholly
occupied, and can scarcely find as much time as I want to write.
Oct.
18th. The Montreal Express came this afternoon, and a general time
of rejoicing it is to everyone. News from distant friends, both
sad and pleasing.
Mr.
Spalding has come with it and brought a letter from my husband,
filled with pleasing information. The Lord has been with them
since they left us, and has prospered them beyond all
expectations. They have each selected a location. My husband
remains there to build, while Mr. Spalding comes after us.
Cheering thought this, to be able to make a beginning in our
pleasing work so soon.
My
Dear Sister Perkins: - Your letter was handed me on the 8th.
inst., a little after noon, and I must say I was a little
surprised to receive a return so soon. Surely, we are near each
other. You will be likely to have known opportunities of sending
to us, more frequently than I shall your way, which I hope you
will not neglect because you have not received the answer to
yours. I do not intend to be so long again in replying as I have
this time. When I received yours, I was entirely alone. My husband
had gone to brother Spalding's to assist him in putting up a
house, and soon after, we had the privilege of preparing and
entertaining Mr. and Mrs. McDonald and family of Colville. They
came by the way of brother Spalding's, spent nearly a week with
them and then came here. They left here last Thursday, and are
still at Walla Walla. Had a very pleasant, agreeable visit with
them. Find Mrs. McDonald quite an intelligent woman; speaks
English very well, reads and is the principal instructor of their
children. She is a correspondent, also, with myself and sister
Spalding. She appears more thoughtful upon the subject of religion
than any I have met with before, and has some consistent views.
What her experimental knowledge is, I am unable to say. It would
be a privilege to have her situated near us, so that we could have
frequent intercourse; it would, no doubt be profitable.
You
ask after my plan of proceedings with the Indians, etc. I wish I
was able to give you satisfactory answers. I have no plan separate
from my husband's, and besides you are mistaken about the language
being at command, for nothing is more difficult than for me to
attempt to convey religious truth in their language, especially
when there are so few, or not terms expressive of the meaning.
Husband succeeds much better than I, and we have good reason to
feel that so far as understood, the truth affects the heart, and
not little, too. We have done nothing for the females separately;
indeed, our house is so small, and only one room to admit them,
and that is the kitchen. It is the men only that frequent our
house much. Doubtless you have been with the Indians long enough
to discover this feature, that women are not allowed the same
privileges as men. I scarcely see them except on the Sabbath in
our assemblies. I have frequently desired to have more intercourse
with them, and am waiting to have a room built for them and other
purposes of instruction. Our principal effort is with the children
now, and we find many very interesting ones. But more of this in
future when I have more time.
Mr.
Pambrun has sent a horse for me to ride to his place tomorrow.
Mrs. Pambrun has been out of health for some time, and we have
fears that she will not recover. As I have considerable
preparations to make for the visit, must defer writing more at
present. In haste, I subscribe myself,
Your
affectionate sister in Christ,
NARCISSA
WHITMAN
P.S.
- I long to hear from Mrs. Lee.
WALLA
WALLA, 11th. My Dear Sister: I am still here. The brigade arrived
yesterday and having time and opportunity to send home for this
letter, both are sent by return boats. We have just received three
or four letters from our friends at home, they being the first
news received since we bade them farewell. Find it good to know
what is going on there, although all is not of a pleasing
character. Our Sandwich Island friends give us pleasing
intelligence of the glorious display of the power of God in
converting that heathen people in such multitudes.
Ever
yours,
N.
WHITMAN.
Rev.
Mrs. H.K.W. Perkins,
Wascopum, La Dalls.
My Dear Sister Perkins: I
did not think when I received your good long letter that I should
have delayed until this time before answering it. But so varied
are the scenes that have passed before me, so much company and so
many cares, etc., besides writing many letters home, that I beg
you will excuse me. Notwithstanding all this, I have often, very
often, thought of you and wished for the privilege of seeing you.
I must confess I do not like quite so well to think of you where
you now are as when you were nearer. Why did you go? Some of our
sisters might just as well as not have spent a short season with
you this fall (for they have nothing else to do, comparatively
speaking) rather than to have you and your dear husband lose so
much time from your interesting field of labor; and besides we
fear the influence of the climate of the lower country upon your
health. Our prayer is that the Lord will deal gently with you and
bless and preserve you to be a rich and lasting good to the
benighted ones for whom you have devoted your life.
How
changed the scene now with us at Wieletpoo from what it has been
in former days. Instead of husband and myself stalking about here
like two solitary beings, we have the society of six of our
brethren and sisters who eat at our table and expect to spend the
winter with us. This is a privilege we highly praise, especially
when we come to mingle our voices in prayer and praise together
before the mercy seat, and hear the word of God preached in our
own language from Sabbath to Sabbath, and to commune together
around the table of our dear Son and Saviour Jesus Christ. Those
favors, dear sister, almost make us forget we are on heathen
ground. Since I last wrote to you we have enjoyed refreshing
seasons from the hand of our Heavenly Father in the conviction and
conversion of two or three individuals in our family. Doubtless
Brother Lee has given you the particulars, yet I wish to speak of
it for our encouragement who have been engaged in the concert of
prayer on Tuesday evening for the year past. I verily believe we
have not prayed in vain, for our revival seasons have been on that
evening, and I seem to feel, too, that the whole atmosphere in all
Oregon is effected by that meeting, for the wicked know far and
near, that there are those here who pray. We have every reason to
be assured that were there more faith and prayer and consecration
to the work among ourselves, we should witness in the heathen
around us many turning to the Lord. If I know my own heart I think
I, too, desire to be freed from so many worldly cares and
perplexities, and that my time may be spent in seeking the
immediate conversion of these dear heathen to God. O, what a
thought to think of meeting them among the blood-washed throng
around the throne of God! Will not their songs be as sweet as any
we can sing? What joy will then fill our souls to contemplate the
privilege we now enjoy of spending and being spent for their good.
If we were constantly to keep our eyes on the scenes that are
before us, we should scarcely grow weary in well doing, or be
disheartened by the few trials and privations through which we are
called to pass.
Dear
sister, I have written in great haste and hope you will excuse me.
Wishing and expecting to hear from you soon, of your prosperity
and happiness, with much love and sisterly affection to you and
yours, believe me,
Ever
yours in the best bonds,
NARCISSA
WHITMAN
Rev.
Mrs. H.K.W. Perkins, Willamette.
WALLA WALLA, Dec. 5, 1836
My Dear
Mother: I have been thinking of my beloved parents this evening;
of the parting scene, and of the probability that I shall never
see those dear faces again while I live. Sweet as it used to be,
when my heart was full, to sit down and pour into my mother's
bosom all my feelings, both sad and rejoicing; now, when far away
from the parental roof, and thirsting for the same precious
privilege, I take my pen and find a sweet relief in giving her my
history in the same familiar way. Perhaps no one else feels as I
do. It would be, indeed, a great satisfaction to me to have my
mother know how I do from day to day-what my employment and
prospects are-but more especially the dealings, the kind dealings
of my Heavenly Father towards us continually.
We
left Vancouver Thursday noon, Nov. 3rd, in two boats-Mr. McLeod,
myself and baggage in one, and Mr. S. in the other. We are well
provided for in everything we could wish-good boats, with strong
and faithful men to manage them; indeed, eight of them were
Iroquois Indians, from Montreal-men accustomed to the water from
their childhood, and well acquainted with the dangers of this
river. Mr. McLeod's accompanying us was as unexpected as
desirable. He only came into Vancouver two days previous to our
leaving, from an expedition to the Umpqua, south of the
Willamette. It rained some that afternoon, also on the 4th and
5th; the 6th it rained all day, nearly, and the wind was very
strong, but in our favor, so that we kept our sail up most of the
day. Our boat was well covered with an oilcloth. At night, when a
great fire was made, our tents pitched and the cloth spread for
tea, all was pleasant and comfortable. I rolled my bed and
blankets in my India-rubber cloak, which preserved them quite well
from the rain, so that nights I slept warm and comfortable as
ever. My featherbed was of essential service to me in keeping my
health this rainy voyage. Did not expect to get one when I wrote
from Vancouver.
On
the morning of the 7th we arrived at the Cascades, made the
portage and breakfasted. Had considerable rain. The men towed the
boats up the falls, on the opposite side of the river. The water
was very low, and made it exceedingly difficult for them to drag
the boats up, in the midst of the rocks and noise of the foaming
waters. Sometimes they were obliged to lift the boats over the
rocks, at others go around them, to the entire destruction of the
gum upon them, which prevents them from leaking. It was nearly
night before all were safely over the difficult passage, and our
boats gummed, ready for launching.
8th.
- Breakfasted just below The Dalles. Passed them without unloading
the boats. This was done by attaching a strong rope of
considerable length to the stern of the boat, two men only
remaining in it to guide and keep it clear of the rocks, while the
remainder, and as many Indians as can be obtained, draw it along
with the rope, walking upon the edge of the rocks above the
frightful precipice. At the Little Dalles, just above these, the
current is exceedingly strong and rapid, and full of whirlpools.
Not recollecting the place particularly, at the request of the
bowsman I remained in the boat, being quite fatigued with my walk
past the other Dalles. It is a terrific sight, and a frightful
place to be in, to be drawn along in such a narrow channel between
such high, craggy, perpendicular bluffs, the men with the rope
clambering sometimes upon their hands and knees upon the very
edge, so high above us as to appear small, like boys. Many times
the rope would catch against the rocks and oblige someone to crawl
carefully over the horrible precipice to unloosen it, much to the
danger of his life. When my husband came up, in passing this
place, the rope caught in a place so difficult of access that no
one would venture his life to extricate it, for some time. At
last, an Indian ventured. When he had ascended sufficiently to
unfasten it, he was unable to return, and did not until he was
drawn up by a rope. They had another accident which threatened
both the lives of some of them, and the property, and but for the
protecting hand of God would have been lost. While the men with
the rope were climbing up a steep and difficult ascent, the rope
lodged upon a rock, which held it fast, and had it remained there
until all hands had gained their point and commenced hauling, all
would have been well; but one of the men above prematurely shoved
it off. The current took the boat down stream rapidly, in spite of
every effort to save it, prostrating all hands upon the rocks, and
some of them were nearly precipitated down the precipice by the
rope. The boat received no injury, but was safely moored below The
Dalles, on the opposite shore.
Our husbands, with the men,
obtained an Indian canoe and crossed to the boat. Thus they were
preserved. It was just night as we succeeded in passing this
difficult place in safety, for which we desired to be grateful.
Many boats have been dashed to pieces at these places, and more
than a hundred lives lost. The water was very low at this time,
which makes the danger much less in passing them. No rain to-day.
Thursday we made the portage of the chutes, and were all day about
it. While on land, had several heavy showers. Friday, also, was
another soaking-wet day; the night, too. This was dreary enough.
Saturday was much more pleasant-no rain.
We arrived at Walla Walla
early Sabbath morning, in health, with all our effects preserved
to us, mercifully. I felt that I had great cause to bless and
praise God, for so seasonable a return, and under such favorable
circumstances. Husband come from our location on the 18th. Had
succeeded in making a comfortable place for me, but because of Mr. Pambrun's earnest solicitation for me to remain a few weeks with
his family. I did not return with him. Mr. and Mrs. P. are
exceeding kind-appear to feel that they cannot do too much to make
us contented and happy here. In the meantime, I am cheerfully
engaged in teaching the wife and daughter to read. We consider it
a very kind providence to be situated near one family so
interesting, and a native female that promises to be so much
society for me. She is learning to speak the English language
quite fast. Mr. and Mrs. S. left Walla Walla for their location,
on the 22nd of November, Mr. Gray going with them to assist in
building, etc. This dear sister goes very cheerfully to her
location, expecting to live in a skin lodge until her house is
built; and this, too, in the dead of winter; But she prefers it to
remaining here, and so should I.
Heard
from husband last week, and of the death of Hinds, a colored man
who came with us from Rendezvous on account of his health, being
far gone with the dropsy. Already death has entered our house, and
laid one low.
Dec.
8th. - Received intelligence that husband was coming tomorrow to
remove our effects and myself to our new home. It is an agreeable
thought to be so near a fixed location after journeying so long.
Dec.
26th. - Where are we now, and who are we that we should be thus
blessed of the Lord? I can scarcely realize that we are thus
comfortably fixed, and keeping house, so soon after our marriage,
when considering what was then before us. We arrived here on the
tenth-distance, twenty-five miles from Walla Walla. Found a house
reared and the lean-to enclosed, a good chimney and fireplace, and
the floor laid. No windows or door except blankets. My heart truly
leaped for joy as I alighted from my horse, entered and seated
myself before a pleasant fire (for it was now night). It occurred
to me that my dear parents had made a similar beginning, and
perhaps a more difficult one than ours. We had neither straw,
bedstead or table, nor anything to make them of except green
cottonwood. All our boards are sawed by hand. Here my husband and
his laborers (two Owyhees from Vancouver and a man who crossed the
mountains with us), and Mr. Gray, have been encamped in tents
since the 19th of October, toiling excessively hard to accomplish
this much for our comfortable residence during the remainder of
the winter.
It
is indeed, a lovely situation. We are on a beautiful level-a
peninsula formed by the branches of the Walla Walla river, upon
the base of which our house stands, on the southeast corner, near
the shore of the main river. To run a fence across to the opposite
river, on the north from our house-this, with the river, would
enclose 300 acres of good land for cultivation, all directly under
the eye. The rivers are barely skirted with timber. This is all
the woodland we can see; beyond them, as far as the eye can reach,
plains and mountains appear. On the east, a few rods from the
house, is a range of small hills, covered with bunchgrass-a very
excellent food for animals, and upon which they subsist during
winter, even digging it from under the snow.